Summer in Central Finland

Central Finland

Between 2016 – 2019 I had the pleasure of living in Finland. Below are my impressions of my old home and advice for making the most . For more details on Jyväskylä see “Finnish Winter Pleasures“.

Long days of peace and beauty

Whenever I’m in certain countries, I like to pick up local words or phrases that encapsulate my time there. For me, living in Central Finland between 2016 and 2019, the word I probably used most was ihana, meaning wonderful, glorious, or delightful. This word conjures memories of late evenings after long, warm days—watching the rich colors of the endlessly setting sun across a pine forest I’d lost myself in, emerging fresh from the waters of a pristine lake to see the interplay of blue skies, water, and treeline, or the intense relaxation of lying on a wooden jetty, my skin pink from the sauna and the lake I’d just run between.

Forest and water

When most people think of Finland, they picture snow and Father Christmas. But if I had to describe Central Finland in three English words, they would be forest, lakes, and light. Growing up in a country like the UK, where the hand of man has touched nearly every corner of nature, it took me a while to truly grasp the sheer scale of the forests that exist there.

There other core…..

Getting into the Finnish outdoors

Finland is an excellent place for camping and hiking, and in cities like Jyväskylä, where the forests almost spill into the urban areas, it’s easy to get out into nature. Southern and Central Finland have a stable Nordic continental climate, with only about 600-750 millimeters of rainfall per year, including the snow that blankets everything (for context, the UK, where I’m from, gets around 800-1400mm of average precipitation). Wind is also rare for much of the year. At the same time, the long summer days mean the biting cold of winter doesn’t reach deep into the heart of summer.

Perhaps Finland’s most amazing feature for walkers is its extensive network of well-maintained paths (many of which double as ski trails), connecting a large number of idyllic camping sites. These sites are equipped with well-maintained compost toilets, fire pits with wood to chop, and often located near fresh lakes where you can swim, bathe, or meditate. While there are a fair bit of marshland in Finland, where dry the soil rarely becomes saturated, so pitching a tent is a dream.

Most national parks feature at least one or two of these, with detailed information available on their websites (see link). And the best part is that all of these parks are completely free to visit.

While marshlands are widespread, there’s a fantastic network of trails throughout the forests, especially in the national parks, making getting around both easy and enjoyable.

Staying in the forest…

Outside of the designated camping areas, Finland boasts an incredibly large number of lean-to shelters, usually stocked with firewood. These make great spots for wild camping or stopping to enjoy a traditional grilled sausage (makkara). For a bit more comfort, there are many affordable camping sites, as well as Finland’s ubiquitous “summer house” culture, or mökki. Nearly every Finnish family has at least one mökki that they share and retreat to during the summer holidays. Many native Finns disappear into the woods for two to three weeks over the summer—spending the first week repairing their mökki from the winter’s damage and restoring their garden plots, and then the rest of the time enjoying the sauna, swimming, hiking, fishing, or whatever they fancy.

A mökki can range from a simple cabin in the woods with a garden plot to a stunning wooden cabin with gorgeous views over a forested lake. But almost without exception, there will be a sauna. Because they’re so common, many people rent them out when they aren’t in use, so finding a cheap, quiet place to stay in the woods is very easy.

Hiking in the forest

In terms of hiking, there are multiple options. First, there are many smaller nature areas around the city, generally accessible by foot, bike, or bus, with well-maintained paths, boardwalks, and information boards. Examples of these include [insert examples]. These are perfect for short day hikes or even an evening stroll to enjoy the sunset.

For a more immersive nature experience, I’d absolutely recommend checking out the national parks. Some are accessible by public transport (details below), but they’re more easily reached by car. Each national park has its own unique characteristics, from eskers and lakes to old forests and meadows. I’ll go into more detail about them in a separate blog, but also check out the excellent national park website, where you can find detailed maps of camping areas, water sources, fireplaces, and must-see locations. Specifically for Jyväskylä, we regularly visited sites like Leivonmäki, Etelä-Konnevesi, Helvetinjärven, Pyhä-Häkki, Salamajärvi, Tiilikkajärvi….

**Bohemian waxwing** (**Bombycilla garrulus**)

Finding your way around

Maps:

Where to go and things to check out

You can start walking or skiing from nearly any point on the edge of the city, but good starting points can be found at:

A) Laajavuori – The city’s ski resort is here, with downhill skiing and many cross-country ski routes, including lit ones. There are also information boards, a café, and toilets. You can hire skis here, but they can also be picked up relatively cheaply from local supermarkets (“S-” and “K-” markets) or second-hand.

B) Ladun Maja – Several good cross-country ski routes pass through here, including lit ones. It has parking, a small café, and information boards.

C) Halssilan hiihtomaa – A car park with many good lit cross-country ski routes going out east from the city.

D) Hämeenlahti – A good place to walk by or on the lake. There is a small car park, and visible paths usually lead onto the lake, which can help you determine where it’s safe to go.

i) Visit the local tourist information in town and check the information boards for updates on ski routes. The tourist information used to provide a useful little map of all the routes around the city, so it’s worth inquiring.