Winter in Jyväskylä region

Central Finland

Between 2016 – 2019 I had the pleasure of living in Finland. Below are my impressions of my old home and advice for not surviving but thriving in it’s winter’s cold. For more details on Jyväskylä see “Summer in Jyväskylä“.

Lost in the light and sound of winter

It’s tempting to think that winter in Finland is all about darkness (and true, there is a lot of it), but in latitudes like Jyväskylä, you’ll get a few hours of clear blue skies, followed by hours-long sunsets. At night, the city lights take over. These rich, warm colors bounce across blankets of snow and ice. This light, mixed with the sound-dampening effects of snow, provides a powerful sense of peacefulness. After the long, busy summer days, this wave of seasonal relaxation, mixed with active walking and skiing, is intoxicating.

Changing seasons

‘Real’ snow starts in mid to late October, and the lakes begin to freeze in December onward. In the very early stages of freezing, a mirror-like black ice forms over the lakes and ponds. Skimming pieces of ice or stones across it produces a booming sound unlike anything I’ve ever heard.

This time of year (and the long melting period in spring) can be tricky, as the snow will occasionally transition into a slushy mess. But as temperatures start to stabilize below 0°C, the ice solidifies, and the snow becomes powdery. At this point, everywhere becomes a real joy.

The cold can be a shock to some, but the air there is dry, and the wind is almost absent. This makes for perfect conditions to get active in the snow and explore its wondrous delights.

Ski routes through the forest and frozen lakes

As the season progresses, the forest starts to drip with snow, and the lakes freeze solid enough to walk out onto. It’s time for the Finns to cut holes in the ice for their saunas and get the skis out from storage!

Jyväskylä, like many Finnish cities, has an extensive system of cross-country ski trails, with many kilometers of well-maintained trails, free of charge. Some ski routes boast street lights to allow you to stay out after sunset. For the more intrepid, there are also many “off-road” ski trails and paths that, while harder to follow, can leave you completely alone in the magic of the snow-laden forest and lakes.

I loved spending long days sliding through the forest. However, one of my favorite things I used to do in midwinter was to walk or ski out onto one of the large lakes on a sunny day to watch the ice crystals sparkle out into the horizon. Ihanna!

Marked paths generally remain walk able though out winter

Diving board at Ladun Maja lake buried under snow

Many ski paths are carefully maintained groves with machines to aid skiing.

As snow builds tree begin to sag and bend under the weight

Nature

While many species are either buried in snow or fly to warmer shores, it’s worth keeping an eye out for both the migratory species as they pass through (like whooper swans and waxwings) and the birds and mammals that tough it out in the winter. These include great tits, snow buntings, capercaillie, and several species of owls, such as Eurasian eagle owls and pygmy owls (like this one on the far right, which rested next to my home balcony one day). It’s also possible to listen to black woodpeckers’ haunting calls over Lake Murtoselkä toward Vuoritsalo.

**Bohemian waxwing** (**Bombycilla garrulus**)

Finding your way around

Maps:

Where to go and things to check out

You can start walking or skiing from nearly any point on the edge of the city, but good starting points can be found at:

A) Laajavuori – The city’s ski resort is here, with downhill skiing and many cross-country ski routes, including lit ones. There are also information boards, a café, and toilets. You can hire skis here, but they can also be picked up relatively cheaply from local supermarkets (“S-” and “K-” markets) or second-hand.

B) Ladun Maja – Several good cross-country ski routes pass through here, including lit ones. It has parking, a small café, and information boards.

C) Halssilan hiihtomaa – A car park with many good lit cross-country ski routes going out east from the city.

D) Hämeenlahti – A good place to walk by or on the lake. There is a small car park, and visible paths usually lead onto the lake, which can help you determine where it’s safe to go.

i) Visit the local tourist information in town and check the information boards for updates on ski routes. The tourist information used to provide a useful little map of all the routes around the city, so it’s worth inquiring.

Being safe

While most of the lakes, when fully frozen, are pretty safe, please use common sense and read local information boards. As the climate warms, the freezing of the lakes has been changing over the years, so it’s useful to speak to locals before venturing out. Some areas are also unsafe at any time of the year, including around the Aijalansalmi channel and Keljonlahti near the energy plant. Also, don’t follow ice fishermen, as they can be reckless in their choice of fishing spots!

Finns like to say, “There is no bad weather, just bad clothing,” so be sure to understand how to dress for the weather. Temperatures will normally range from -5°C to -25°C but can drop below -30°C. At this temperature, your eyelashes freeze. Personally, at this temperature, I think snow boots and a winter jacket are obligatory! Rain is rare in midwinter (and disastrous!), but melting snow can make you wet, so be sure to brush it off if going in and out of doors. Whiteouts can happen, so keep an eye out for heavy snowfall from trees and icicles falling from buildings.